We are addicts of the Xugong and this is our 3rd Xugong after the Xugong10 v1 and Xugong 8 v1 but we weren’t able to get it till recently as it’s popular after many has found out how small it is and travelling with it is a breeze but finally, ReadymadeRC stocked it, notified us and immediately, we placed an order. Today, it arrived.
Above: Why those motors mounts screws, we will never know. It’s too short!
Above: Side plates compared. V2 and Xugong 10 V1. The V2 is slightly taller.
With the V2, Immersion has made it even better with improvements on the PDB to integrate video camera switching, OSD in a nice red based board (officially these are stated OSD, Camera switch,GoPro Power Supply (5.0 V), GPS Interface, Current/Voltage Sensor, PPM in/out). It’s also a great system if you are already on ImmersionRC system, you’ll be familiar on the setup however, on the other hand, it does locks you to the brand. With ImmersionRC making some leading technologies and constantly improving on it, we think it’s not an issue. The below is an overview diagram from their documentation that’ll be easy to understand.
We can now strike of one of our dislikes in the Xugong10 build. The FR4. No more FR4, all carbon fiber now! We also opt to not get the gimbal as of yet and to utlises the existing Tarot T2-D gimbals that we have.
Nifty quad with built in Immersion ezOSD that folds small. Great for travelling.
– Carbon Fiber.
– As with all the other Xugong(s) not being able to shift the CG as and where we like it to maintain the CG at the flight controller. It’s either front heavy or more often, back heavy when we choose to fly even with the recommended Multistar 4S 5200 mAh lipo.
– A longer frame so the lipo do not stick out. At the expenses of weight.
– The same inabilitiy to balance the quad with the lipo if you want to use a huge one like we, preferring the 4S 5000mah Turnigy. They recommend a Multistar 5200mah (constant 10C) that we’ll try out soon but we fail to see how it will counter the weight of a gimbal installed at the front of the XugongV2.
Modifying the GoPro cable that’s supplied to take the mobius is straight forward. Yellow to yellow and black to black. just cut and solder them together.
Lipo size Compare
Below: The Zippy Compact 4S 5000 mAh
Below: The Multistar 10C 4S 5200 mAh
3 Sept 2015
Rebuilding started. Killed our Naza M V2, got a Taranis, some new EMAX 2216 and a new Flytrex for this rebuild. Ordered new frame plates from Red20RC.
17 Sept 2015
All Parts arrived. Motors took really long as it was out of stock and there’s a Version 2 of the popular EMAX 2216 810kv but we decided to stick to V1 as we already have a set of them and spares.
Top and bottom plates are awesome from Red20RC. After some discussion via email with Mike, he cut, packed and delivered the plates. The journey took about 10 days from Australia to Singapore. We ordered 2 sets of 1.5mm and 2mm ones. We started the rebuild with the 2mm ones of course.
18 Sept 2015
Found that the miniOSD is faulty, white dots appear all over the LCD screen. Darn…
The Hobbyking Aliencoptor 430mm is one of the nicest frame thus far that we have built.
Following from Hobbyking product page. This is the 430mm version. Aliencopter has another 470mm version that folds slightly different here. Here for people who can’t see the page. We still cannot figure why they don’t like traffic from Singapore.
It got us getting out Paypal account ready when we recently crashed the F330. Got another team member, the Mrs. to rebuilt that while this Aliencopter gets built too.
The manual is horrible. So here’s better pics! We can’t vouch for better words but it sure is better with the original manual having little and quite useless instructions.
Build up the top chamber first and the stand offs. Leave the upper most plate off for Flight Controller installation.
Put in the 8 red standoffs. We swop out the screws after the first few flights. They are simply too short to be able to hold the top plate nicely and it keeps coming off ripping the threads away from the tip of the short screws.
Install the standoffs on the arms. Note that these 4 standoffs are packed separated from the above 8 pieces with it’s corresponding screws.
Install the motors. We migrated some DJI 2212 from the last Reptile Build here. It already has nice long cables that we tuck below the arms then back up again, later to the ESCs. We removed the DJI and mounted EMAX as the DJI can’t take some standard propellors the emax could. The center hub was thicker at 10mm.
Run the cables on the outside so when folded, the cables dont come into place and get sliced.
Install all the teeny tiny screws and standoffs on the bottom plate. We like to have the “arrow” design pointing forward but it’s no difference since it’s a quad. If you have any preference like us, you have to decide now so it’s tidy.
Power Power Power
Install the PDB. We made use of the existing one from myrcmart since it’s a nicely solder with 4 x 30A Opto from DJI. Just made use of some standoffs. There are some transparent nylon screws with nylon nuts and standoffs. These are all for the Aliencopter PDB that came with it. Do not use metal standoffs. We skip using the provided one as we have existing ones. The provided Aliencopter one has blue LEDs like what we ordered separately from Goodluckbuy and installed on our Alien560mm.
Put in the bottom plate 2. We only screw in 2 center screws right in the middle for now for adjustment. Layout the ESCs. Put in the arms Screw in all bottom screws. Completed.
In the field
We brought this quad to St John’s Island and the neighboring island and it’s a blast to fly it around but the constant dismantling and assembling of the arms is really frustrating.
Being on the island, we decided to simply strap it on the bag and walk around with it out of the bag, assembled and ready to fly. It doesn’t cause much alarm with the whole quad in the open as these island are only full of anglers and a few tourists.
Our contraption works great using only cable ties, strapping the dismantled Tarot T2-D gimbal to the front of the whole quad.
We used the Hobbyking single cable to do “traditional” setup of the Naza M V2.
The most irritatant was the constant assembly of the arms and dismantling of the arms. The size is generally the same as compared to the ATG 12 inch foldable quadcopter but the ATG using Tarot type catches that do not require removing screws to be ready to fly.
– 3D Printed front gimbal mount to replace the zip ties
– Repositioning of the GPS, video transmitter and receiver into the cage
overall more space at the back for the GPS and the Lipo can be pushed all the way to the back to counter the weight of the gimbal at the front
– Try out with 9047 and 1045 propellors hoping to get a little more flight time. We average 10.5 mins now with the gimbal and a Turnigy 5000 mah lipo