The Hobbyking Aliencoptor 430mm is one of the nicest frame thus far that we have built.
Following from Hobbyking product page. This is the 430mm version. Aliencopter has another 470mm version that folds slightly different here. Here for people who can’t see the page. We still cannot figure why they don’t like traffic from Singapore.
It got us getting out Paypal account ready when we recently crashed the F330. Got another team member, the Mrs. to rebuilt that while this Aliencopter gets built too.
The manual is horrible. So here’s better pics! We can’t vouch for better words but it sure is better with the original manual having little and quite useless instructions.
Build up the top chamber first and the stand offs. Leave the upper most plate off for Flight Controller installation.
Put in the 8 red standoffs. We swop out the screws after the first few flights. They are simply too short to be able to hold the top plate nicely and it keeps coming off ripping the threads away from the tip of the short screws.
Install the standoffs on the arms. Note that these 4 standoffs are packed separated from the above 8 pieces with it’s corresponding screws.
Install the motors.
We migrated some DJI 2212 from the last Reptile Build here. It already has nice long cables that we tuck below the arms then back up again, later to the ESCs. We removed the DJI and mounted EMAX as the DJI can’t take some standard propellors the emax could. The center hub was thicker at 10mm.
Run the cables on the outside so when folded, the cables dont come into place and get sliced.
Install all the teeny tiny screws and standoffs on the bottom plate. We like to have the “arrow” design pointing forward but it’s no difference since it’s a quad. If you have any preference like us, you have to decide now so it’s tidy.
Power Power Power
Install the PDB. We made use of the existing one from myrcmart since it’s a nicely solder with 4 x 30A Opto from DJI. Just made use of some standoffs. There are some transparent nylon screws with nylon nuts and standoffs. These are all for the Aliencopter PDB that came with it. Do not use metal standoffs. We skip using the provided one as we have existing ones. The provided Aliencopter one has blue LEDs like what we ordered separately from Goodluckbuy and installed on our Alien560mm.
Put in the bottom plate 2. We only screw in 2 center screws right in the middle for now for adjustment. Layout the ESCs. Put in the arms Screw in all bottom screws. Completed.
In the field
We brought this quad to St John’s Island and the neighboring island and it’s a blast to fly it around but the constant dismantling and assembling of the arms is really frustrating.
Being on the island, we decided to simply strap it on the bag and walk around with it out of the bag, assembled and ready to fly. It doesn’t cause much alarm with the whole quad in the open as these island are only full of anglers and a few tourists.
Jetty on Kusu Island. #instashot #nocrop #sj4000 #mobius #emax #gopro #turnigy #9XR #fpv #hobbyking #aliencopter 430mm #stjohnisland #kusuisland #tarot #gimbal #t2d A video posted by =In The Course Of Work= (@itcow) on
Our contraption works great using only cable ties, strapping the dismantled Tarot T2-D gimbal to the front of the whole quad.
We used the Hobbyking single cable to do “traditional” setup of the Naza M V2.
The most irritatant was the constant assembly of the arms and dismantling of the arms. The size is generally the same as compared to the ATG 12 inch foldable quadcopter but the ATG using Tarot type catches that do not require removing screws to be ready to fly.
– 3D Printed front gimbal mount to replace the zip ties
– Repositioning of the GPS, video transmitter and receiver into the cage
overall more space at the back for the GPS and the Lipo can be pushed all the way to the back to counter the weight of the gimbal at the front
– Try out with 9047 and 1045 propellors hoping to get a little more flight time. We average 10.5 mins now with the gimbal and a Turnigy 5000 mah lipo